Cutting the board

Cut the board on the side with wide silver strip so that the connectors are flush with the edge:

• Insert the two side connectors
• Make a mark with a thin marker or pencil
• Remove both connectors
• Connect with a ruler
• Cut with tin cutters
• Cut the two corners so that all 4 corners are alike
• Put on a flat file and grind down for a sharp edge
• Measure the width of the board after cutting in millimeters. Pick up the appropriate template set and print it.

Connector-independent template

Print this template.

Template cutting

Shear out the templates from paper with 1-2mm extra space around. Glue them down on a tin and cut them out with tin shears. Do not cut out cutouts in drilled pieces yet.

Drilling

Drill out all templates and then cut out remaining cutouts.

Rail

Print this template. Cut and bend 2.5mm^2 wire according to it.

Finishing the lids

• Optional: punch the logo with a centrepunch and a hammer
• Bend the borders of the both lids 180 degrees so the paper stays out
• The fronts in the drawing wil be bent in the following step.

Note: the picture should be still with paper.

Finishing the fronts

• Optional: punch out a serial number
• Bend all bends by 90 degrees away from the paper, except the shortest one which is bent only 45 degrees.

Note: all the fronts pictures should be still with paper.

Water

Throw all templates into water and remove the paper this way. Clean the templates completely.

Population

• Partlist for parts in ammo belts
• Partlist for parts in compartments

Note: the pictures should be without the faceplate and the screws.

Warning

Soldering the sides

Note: the pictures should still have gaps in the corners instead of a wire.

• Screw on the side on connectors and solder down from both sides.
• Solder down the 3 little pieces that fit into the connector cutouts. Solder them directly on the connector bodies. If there's a danger of melting the plastic, continue on a different connector and return back to the first one later.
• Solder down the adjacent sides. Maintain the corner gap on both sides the same.
• Solder down the remaining side (the long blank one).
• Solder together the cable sleeve (seen in the bottom of the picture) and solder it over the hole in the indicated position.

Soldering the corners

Solder a piece of 1.5mm^2 wire on each corner. Then bend the ends by 90 degrees and cut immediately behind the bend. Solder down the bent part too.

Solder the cable holder wire loop touching the corner wire.

Note: the big picture should be without the cable and the lid.

STP cable

• If you don't have ready-made cord, Cut 2m of STP cable or 1m of UTP cable and crimp a RJ-45 modular jack best with jacket at the end (recommended wiring: T568B).
• Strip 40mm of outer insulation from the end without the jack. Trim the shield wire down to 20mm. Strip 5mm from each individual wire.
• Cover the stripped wires, including the shield, with solder on the end.
• Stick the cable into the square tube, draw the shield back inside the case and solder it down to the tin.
• Solder the cable to the 5 solder pads:

  RJ45 contact	Solder pad
  1	T53
  2	T54
  3	T51
  6	T52

• Solder the 4 remaining wires to T55 or the bare metal.

Note: the cable in the picture should be stranded and the connectors shielded.

Gluing down the cable

Press hot glue or silicon sealant between the cable and the metal sleeve.

Note: the picture should be without the lid.