Ronja Twibright Labs

Building Ronja Twister2 PCB

Building Ronja Twister2 on PCB

INFO We are going to build a small box with electronics with a PCB inside. The PCB and lids will be connected to the box by continuous soldering along the whole length of the edge.
Gallery[1e69] Gallery[1e70]
INFO Some of the pictures contain notes because they don't show what they should exactly show. When you build your one, please make these missing pictures and send to the author so he can fix the guide.
Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / SVG (Inkscape)

Cutting the board

Cut the board on the side with wide silver strip so that the connectors are flush with the edge:

  • Insert the two side connectors
  • Make a mark with a thin marker or pencil
  • Remove both connectors
  • Connect with a ruler
  • Cut with tin cutters
  • Cut the two corners so that all 4 corners are alike
  • Put on a flat file and grind down for a sharp edge
  • Measure the width of the board after cutting in millimeters. Pick up the appropriate template set and print it.
Note: the picture should be without the cable and components.Gallery[1e65]

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / DXF (qcad)

Connector-independent template

Print this template.


Template cutting

Shear out the templates from paper with 1-2mm extra space around. Glue them down on a tin and cut them out with tin shears. Do not cut out cutouts in drilled pieces yet.



Drill out all templates and then cut out remaining cutouts.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / DXF (qcad)


Print this template. Cut and bend 2.5mm^2 wire according to it.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / DXF (qcad)

Finishing the lids

  • Optional: punch the logo with a centrepunch and a hammer
  • Bend the borders of the both lids 180 degrees so the paper stays out
  • The fronts in the drawing wil be bent in the following step.

Note: the picture should be still with paper.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / DXF (qcad)

Finishing the fronts

  • Optional: punch out a serial number
  • Bend all bends by 90 degrees away from the paper, except the shortest one which is bent only 45 degrees.

Note: all the fronts pictures should be still with paper.

Gallery[1e6b] Gallery[1e67] Gallery[1e68]


Throw all templates into water and remove the paper this way. Clean the templates completely.

Gallery[1e67] Gallery[1e68] Gallery[1e71] Gallery[1e72]
Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / SVG (Inkscape)


Print the appropriate partlist and populate the board, keeping in mind the components polarity and putting the label on the component always up.

Note: the pictures should be without the faceplate and the screws.

Gallery[1e69] Gallery[1e6a]


Put the board into isopropylalcohol and clean out with an old toothbrush all the rosin flux. Don't pour the dirty isopropyl into the switches if you don't have to. If you have to, wash it out once in clean and blow out from the switches before it dries out. Finally, let the whole board dry.


The most common problem is a SMD pin that looks like soldered with small amount of solder, but is actually not soldered at all and can be detached with a needle.

  • Check all pins for bad or missing soldering. Sometimes a SMD pin looks like soldered, but is only touching the pad. Play a dentist - try to lift every suspicious SMD pin with the needle. Resolder in case of doubt. Every unusually bulged, wrinkled or cracked tin drop has to be re-melted with a dab of rosin flux.
  • Check all IC's, polarized capacitors, diodes and LEDs that they are not turned around
  • Print out the population list once more and check all components for the right value and type (where you can see it).


What do you think would happen if you skip this correctness check? "Your board would come to a screeching halt and you'd fly. And you'd smash cement." -- Stacy Peralta, Dogtown and Z-Boys"

Soldering the sides

Note: the pictures should still have gaps in the corners instead of a wire.

  • Screw on the side on connectors and solder down from both sides.
  • Solder down the 3 little pieces that fit into the connector cutouts. Solder them directly on the connector bodies. If there's a danger of melting the plastic, continue on a different connector and return back to the first one later.
  • Solder down the adjacent sides. Maintain the corner gap on both sides the same.
  • Solder down the remaining side (the long blank one).
  • Solder together the cable sleeve (seen in the bottom of the picture) and solder it over the hole in the indicated position.
Gallery[1e69] Gallery[1e6a] Gallery[1e6d] Gallery[1e6f] Gallery[1e70]

Soldering the corners

Solder a piece of 1.5mm^2 wire on each corner. Then bend the ends by 90 degrees and cut immediately behind the bend. Solder down the bent part too.

Solder the cable holder wire loop touching the corner wire.

Note: the big picture should be without the cable and the lid.

Gallery[1e6d] Gallery[1e6f] Gallery[1e70]
Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / SVG (Inkscape)

STP cable

  • If you don't have ready-made cord, Cut 2m of STP cable or 1m of UTP cable and crimp a RJ-45 modular jack best with jacket at the end (recommended wiring: T568B).
  • Strip 40mm of outer insulation from the end without the jack. Trim the shield wire down to 20mm. Strip 5mm from each individual wire.
  • Cover the stripped wires, including the shield, with solder on the end.
  • Stick the cable into the square tube, draw the shield back inside the case and solder it down to the tin.
  • Solder the cable to the 5 solder pads:
    RJ45 contactSolder pad
  • Solder the 4 remaining wires to T55 or the bare metal.

Note: the cable in the picture should be stranded and the connectors shielded.

Gallery[ed7] Gallery[ef2]


Gluing down the cable

Press hot glue or silicon sealant between the cable and the metal sleeve.

Note: the picture should be without the lid.

An expected information missing here?