Building Ronja Audiofire

We are going to build Audiofire: a metal box with holes, grommet, wire nut and electronics.

Soldering bottom lid

Solder bottom lid to the body using soldering iron, solder and rosin flux.

Contact flaps

Make contact flaps using tin scissors on rim of the lid
1 cut on shorter edge and 2 on longer
Shape them so that every flap has good contact

There are two possibilities how to drill out the box. First one is using a calibrated printer, printing out a template and gluing the template on a tin. The second one is measuring everything by hand.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / DXF (qcad)

Option 1: Drilling template

Print out this drawings, cut out the drilling template and glue on the tin box.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / DXF (qcad)

Option 1: Drilling

Drill out holes on the template. Use the wire nut as template for it's mounting holes. During drilling use the M3 bolts and possibly also nuts to hold down the nut in already drilled holes.

After drilling, soak the template off in water and throw away.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / DXF (qcad)

Option 2: making the box with manual measurements

Make the box according to the plan. Use hard stylus or thin marker for nonporous surfaces for drawing lines. Use square for maintaining perpendicularity and centre punch for making centres of holes.

Bushings

Install three 4mm grommets into the 6mm holes.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / SVG (Inkscape)

Making L stubs

Make 3 L-stubs stubs according to the picture. Cut also 3 20mm long straight bare pieces from the same wire.

Installing wire stubs

Install 3 insulated L-shaped wire stubs into the grommets. Prepare straight uninsulated wire stubs.

Mounting wire nut

Mount the wire nut. Wrench is 5.5mm. Use 5 M3x15 bolts and 5 M3 washers and 5 M3 nuts and tighten. Install ends of L stubs into the wire nut and tighten. Insert and tighten the two 20mm long uninsulated straight wire stubs into the remaining slots of the wire nut on the same side as the previously installed L-stubs.

Soldering down straight stubs

Solder down the straight wires onto the tin box.

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / SVG (Inkscape)

Color bands

Apply color bands with shown colors made from duct tape. Remember existence of this drawing for future reference when soldering the circuit inside.

Note: the photo shows completed Audiofire, ignore the label.

We are going to solder an airwire construction. The IC will be glued down on it's back. The interconnections will be soldered using a hard wire, solder and rosin flux. A transformer soldering iron (the one with the loop) or regulated-temperature iron is used for this. FIXME: sem dat obrazky Audiofire.

Write on chip's bottom side it's designation again (use paper stickers). Glue chip down on it's back somewhere in the middle of the box.

		PostScript	PostScript + Gzip	PDF
Color	Dark	audiofire_01.ps	audiofire_01.ps.gz	audiofire_01.pdf
	Light	audiofire_00.ps	audiofire_00.ps.gz	audiofire_00.pdf
	Small	audiofire_02.ps	audiofire_02.ps.gz	audiofire_02.pdf
B/W	Dark	audiofire_11.ps	audiofire_11.ps.gz	audiofire_11.pdf
	Light	audiofire_10.ps	audiofire_10.ps.gz	audiofire_10.pdf
	Small	audiofire_12.ps	audiofire_12.ps.gz	audiofire_12.pdf

audiofire.sch (gschem)

Component lists

Seznamy součástek

Soldering

Solder in all the parts according to the schematic in this order:

U1
IC blocking capacitors: C1, C2, C3
The rest

Correctness check

Take the Audiofire and inspect it completely.

Left-out components
Left-out wires
Wires leading somewhere else than they should lead
Correct values of passive components
Correct IC type
Correct orientation of IC
Correct orientation of diodes.
Correct orientation of polarized capacitor

Postscript / PDF / EPS / BIG png / SVG (Inkscape)

Labels

Print out the Audiofire labels. Stick the big label on outer side of the lid and fill in. Strick the strip label on the other longer side than the colour strips are so that when the wire nut is up, you can read the letters on the strip label.

Print out the small schematic (see the Schematic section above) and glue on the inner side of the lid. Cross over any component that is replaced by an equivalent and inscribe the true equivalent type.